國際頂級調香大師教你調製獨一無二的專屬香氛

國內高端生活方式平台新先聚品FRESHER STYLE近日聯合法國巴黎ATELIER MNEMIST工作室舉辦了一次法國香水定製活動，邀請國際頂級調香大師Jahnvi Dameron Nandan 為人們調香，打造世界上只屬於自己的香水。

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There are thousands of smells around us. We can sniff a whole bunch of things like rose, vanilla, orange, woods, grass, leather, plastic and oceans.

However, very few of us are enable to compose different scents into perfume to manipulate the sense of smell and bring back the pleasant memory of good scents.

Perfumery is a very small industry – supposedly there are more astronauts than there are perfumers in the world.

Jahnvi Dameron Nandan from Paris is one of the 250 perfume masters in the world.

Jahnvi recently flied to Beijing to throw a banquet of smells, collaborating with Fresher Style, a popular high-end lifestyle platform in China to teach Chinese people how to make their own signature perfume at a workshop.

全世界能成為真正調香師的人，目前只有250人，而且這些調香大師都是獨立或屬於專業香料香精公司。時尚大牌很少自己有自己的調香師，我們所了解的大牌知名香水（真我、N.5、毒藥、尼羅河……）均是由這些調香大師創造。

它們原料簡單

受大眾喜好左右

發揮的空間比較少

使用的原材料受成本限制

香型也不可能太個性

真正的法國制香行業，像一些高檔的稀有香精材料多則要上萬塊幾毫升。它們選自世界各地最優質的花草植物原料，大量珍稀原材壓榨萃取幾毫升，滴滴珍貴如金。

調香大師們具有構繪香調的能力

As one of the most talented persons at scents in the world, Jahnvi Dameron Nandan has been exploring the world for finding out smells and composing perfume almost every single day in the past 10 years. She freely plays with ingredients like a magician-she never uses roses to make a rose perfume. She makes the very soul of the rose.

Jahnvi Dameron Nandan，感謝 Economist/1843 提供照片

「 All roses smell different. Rose is just the inspiration. The reason why we don't use roses is because you don't want to smell like a rose garden which you already have. We make it more abstract to lift you into another world of roses. 「

偉大的調香大師們天生就有構繪香調的能力，他們運用天然精萃或合成材料，締造或重釋各異香氣，環遊世界選購至真至美的香氛原料，辨千種氣味。為重現腦海中的神秘香調，像畫一幅畫一樣，按照不同原料配比混合，神秘而奇特。

調香大師Jahnvi Dameron Nandan出生於印度一個在香水行業非常重要的城市，那裡誕生了玫瑰香氛精華。她生活在法國巴黎，有著十多年的調香經驗。過去的十載，沒有一天她不在用鼻子尋覓美妙的氣味，醉心研究如何調製香氛。

香水的魅力與記憶有關

Jahnvi』s studio ATELIER MNEMIST is based in Paris, creating bespoke fragrances. She believes perfume is all about memories. Nothing is more memorable than a smell.

One scent can be unexpected, momentary and fleeting, yet conjure up a childhood summer beside a lake in the mountains; another, a moonlit beach; a third, a family dinner. Smells detonate softly in our memory like poignant land mines hidden under the weedy mass of years. Hit a tripwire of smell and memories explode all at once. A complex vision leaps out of the undergrowth.

By exploring your memories, they are able to extract the key notes that form the heart of your bespoke fragrances.

Jahnvi says, 「each of the the ingredients here is already a complex combination of around 100 smells. The idea here is to get people to find their signature in smell, and then to blend and to create a fragrance that suits their personality and belongs to them.」

Jahnvi多次登上《vogue》、《GQ》等時尚雜誌，曾為頂級大牌打造過多款名香，然而自己創立的香水工作室ATELIER MNEMIST則專註於為個人打造「獨一無二」的專屬香氛。

Jahnvi相信香水的魅力與記憶有關。

她獨創的「記憶香水」，就是當你回味到生命最美好瞬間的氣味，她能以此為靈感創造那種時刻的香氣！比如，你記憶中最美的時刻，是與愛人在海邊，海風的水潤微鹹的氣息，她能知道某個香料有這種感覺，然後設計配方，與不同香味組合，加入少量靈感香料，就可以在頭香上得到海風的氣息。

不過正常設計一款香水要6個月到3年不等。每位調香師都有自己的習慣、創造主題，以及調配方式。他們耗盡畢生，辨別數千種氣味，製造世上最極致的香氣。

一款成型的香水往往需要幾十上百種原材料經過長時間的混合調配而成，看起來好像是簡單的一瓶香水，往往要花費調香師巨大的時間成本與精力——譜香、調香、定香，再到實際選擇決定它的頭香、體香、基香的比例，以及識別人工和天然香氣的組合反應……中間需要耗費半年到幾年的時間，花費少則幾十萬，多則甚至百萬元。

但是在Jahnvi現場的簡化指引下，體驗者們化身成了調香師，感受到了定製香水的神秘與神奇。

現場調配的很多基香其實已經是調香師經過多年時間開發出來的混合香精了，有時候為了讓不同的香精融合甚至要混合至少3個月才能讓香氣徹底融合。

她在活動現場指導人們根據自己的氣質和喜好，從20種世界最頂級最昂貴的基礎香精（有單一香源的精華，也有數十種香源預調製成的基礎香精）自己參與調製出適合他們的香水。

她輔導體驗者，講述自己的記憶故事，寫下自己的香味筆記，然後輔導他們如何配比，運用這些法國製造的珍稀香精原料，一點一點調製比例和層次。

如果你說喜歡」田園裡的味道」，那股氣息是你出生的記憶。調香師就會為你分析：草香要飄在頭上，如雲霧一樣，若即若離，幾毫升即可。泥土要淡一點，可以在泥土味中加一些刈草香和甜味，加入泥土和爛樹葉味要在後面，穩重而不突出，水感而持久。這一系列的感覺與記憶，轉化為真實存在的香氣，是如同魔法一樣神聖而奇迹的過程。

給你最專屬的浪漫香氣

Alberto Libanori, Director General and Co-Founder of ATELIER MNEMIST says they』ve noticed that more and more Chinese people are searching for unique things which can fully express their own identities and true natures.

Bertoni, the founder of FRESHER STYLE, the active lifestyle platform in China says they would like to hold more events like this to help enrich people』s knowledge to find out what they truly like and cultivate their interests in quality lives.

「以前人們噴香水，總是想什麼氣味能夠取悅大家。現在，我們的香氣更像是在表達自我。香水就像一把鑰匙，讓想了解你的人通過香氣多角度的認識你，甚至會因為香氣的魔力折服於你！ 」

新先聚品以後還將舉行更多這樣的生活方式體驗活動，並與ATELIER MNEMIST工作室推出特別的香水定製之旅，讓人們兩次飛赴法國，進入香水研發中心，為自己的品牌或個人定製香水。同時這個香味的配方和版權終身屬於她（他）。

About US

FM Lifestyle is Radio Beijing International's new lifestyle magazine flag show. Launched in January 2016, FM Lifestyle is an interview based daily show focusing on lifestyle, entertainment, services and creative projects around China. Hosted by two of our lead hosts, Gail Zohar and Chloe Liu, the show combines traditional and new media platforms as well as social networks. Throughout the year Gail and Chloe will be visiting venues, attending events, meeting with entrepreneurs, innovators, chefs and artists bringing first hand experience reports, sounds and sights to our listeners in China and around the world.