Shoe Business: Roger Vivier and Hermès

敬請期待中文版

The perilous stiletto is not going out of fashion any time soon. At six months pregnant, Amal Clooney is teetering around in high heels that pitch her taller than her movie star husband. And the Duchess of Cambridge showed up at last week』s St Patrick』s Day celebrations in Gianvito Rossi high-heeled pumps to match her Catherine Walker coat.
Yet pin heels are being challenged by a wide choice of more practical shoes that appeared in the latest round of collections. Here』s some news for women who want to take fashion in their stride.

Roger Vivier: Ottomania

The knock-out audio-visual installation by Jean-Paul Goude set feet tapping before a single shoe had been put on display. The wall panels of moving figures were an uplifting example of how an imaginative artist can create a lasting fashion image for the digital world.

For those who could drag their eyes away from the all-singing, all-dancing figures, there was a wide selection of low-heeled shoes from Creative Director Bruno Frisoni.

But if flats once seemed designed just for striding or for Plain Janes, today』s offering is different, including exotic shoes called 「Ottowoman」, inspired by exotic Ottoman wall hangings; fur-trimmed mules; and bold blooms on flat slippers.

For a little more uplift, there was the podium-square bootie, with a hint of the famous Vivier silhouette worn by French actress Catherine Deneuve in the 1960s. For full sensuality, feathers floated and waved over sexy high heels. But the plumes also decorated knee-high boots and floaty sandals, proving that allure can be presented in all kinds of footwear.

Hermès: All in the details

Over the last few seasons, Hermès has been presenting shoes and bags as separate collections. (Don』t ask me why they don』t include their incomparable scarves.) The Hermès handbag has cast its powerful spell since the days of the Kelly, but there are now some interesting elaborations, for example bags with a multiple choice of colourful, woven detachable straps, or even a pattern of the straps printed on a woven bag.

The shoes have been quite a revelation: ankle boots with stolid square heels or with front lacing that would require a lady』s maid to do them up. Sports shoes include upgraded leather or suede sneakers complete with simple slip-ons.

Shoe heaven? Loafers in bottle-green suede with a bold, gold 「H」 for Hermès as decoration.

轉載聲明

本內容系VOGUE時尚網原創或經官方授權編譯轉載，嚴禁以任何形式或方法轉載或使用，違者追究法律責任。