影會倒計時丨廣州時間膠囊

策展人：Shahidul Alam

攝影師：Shahidul Alam

A

GUANGZHOUTIME CAPSULE

廣州時間膠囊

我們從小聽到大的聖訓中說，「即便知識遠在，亦要求學」。我還記得，六十年代，我父親第一次到這片神秘的土地旅行，帶回了精美的軟木雕塑和我很喜歡觸摸的織錦。他拍攝了孩子的照片，這些孩子胖胖的、臉色紅潤。我從來沒有出過國，但是我心嚮往的地方。

1986 年，我在香港擔任英聯邦攝影大賽評審，我和另一名評審 Raghu Rai（印度著名的瑪格南圖片社攝影師）決定順道去旅行。我不懂中文，所以對我而言，我們即將前往的廣州在發音上聽起來有點像。

從香港發出的火車讓我初次感到驚訝。的男男女女聽到 「ichikdanabichikdana」后頻頻點頭。這部印度電影再次讓我想到童年。不是每個人都喜歡成為攝影對象，當我把鏡頭從車窗伸向農村時，他們會撐起雨傘。這讓我感到極大不同。孟加拉國人就很喜歡我的鏡頭。

我們對旅遊景點不感興趣。待在人民公園似乎是最好的方式。我們只讓導遊用中文寫下「帶我到人民公園」，以便告知計程車司機。一切進展順利。我們路過後街小巷，路過建造中的摩天大樓，外部還搭建有竹制腳手架。人們嚴格遵守交通規則，我們為此感到驚嘆。我們看到了理髮店、購物中心和生鮮市場。我們穿過人民橋和

連綿不斷的腳踏車流，終於來到公園。我們來得很早，人們正在打太極和遛鳥。一位上了年紀大爺佝僂著身子在讀牆報。我們一整天都在拍照，參觀民居，結交朋友，只會說「你好」。在回來的路上，我們才惶恐地意識到，忘了讓導遊告知如何回酒店！最後我們如何回到酒店則又是另外一個故事了。

從那以後，我多次來到——擔任攝影比賽的評委，完成自己的項目——從源頭到入海口追溯雅魯藏布江，拍攝哈爾濱的洪水，為北京市和上海市兩位市長著書出力，擔任策展人，擔任老師，舉辦自己的展覽。最近，我們還在深圳出版了一本書。

如今，廣州的變化翻天覆地，從這座城市的轉型中，我看到，從童年到現在，周圍的世界一直在變。今天，這些照片構成了一粒時間膠囊，讓我回到了 80 年代的廣州和青春歲月。

「

Seek knowledge even as far as China」 is a saying from the Hadith we had grown up with. I remembered my father returning from his first trip to this mysterious land, in the sixties. He brought delicately chiseled cork sculptures, and brocade fabric, which I loved to touch. He had photographs of Chinese children, plump, with rosy cheeks. I had never been abroad, but Zhongguo (China) was a land I wanted to see.

So when I was in Hong Kong for the judging of the Commonwealth Photography Contest in 1986, fellow jury member Raghu Rai (India』s celebrated Magnum photographer), and I, decided to take a side trip to China. To my untrained ear, the city we were heading to, Guangzhou, sounded a bit like Zhongguo anyway.

The train from Hong Kong provided the first surprise. The Chinese men and women were nodding to 「ichik dana bichik dana」. This Hindi movie was a second link to my childhood. Not everyone liked being photographed and umbrellas often shot up when I pointed my lens out of the window into the countryside. This was different for me. Bangladeshis love being photographed.

Tourist sites didn』t interest us. A day in the People』s Park seemed the best way to spend the one full day we had in China. We explained to our travel agent guide that writing down 「Take me to the People』s Park」 in Chinese, so we could show it to the taxi driver, was all she needed to do for us. It worked perfectly. We went past backstreets and alleyways, massive skyscrapers being built with bamboo scaffolding. We marveled at the perfect discipline with which people stopped at traffic lights. We saw barber shops, shopping centres and also market places where almost everything was live. Walking past the constant stream of bicycles crossing the People』s Bridge we eventually got to the park. We had arrived early in the morning when people were doing Tai Chi. Men and women walked their birds. An old man, crouched with age, read a wall newspaper. We photographed all day, going into people』s homes, making friends, all without being able to say anything more than 「ni hau」. It was on the way back that we realised to our horror that we』d forgotten to ask our guide, instructions for taking us back to the hotel! How we made it back is fodder for another story.

I』ve been back to China many times since. As a jury member in photo contests. On my own extended project following the Yarlung Tsang Po river, from its source to the sea. Documenting the floods in Harbin. Working on books for the mayors of Beijing and Shanghai, as a curator, as a teacher and even with my own show. More recently we printed one of our books in Shenzhen.

Guangzhou is a very different city today, and in the transformation, I see a reflection of how the world around me has changed since I was a child. These photographs today form a time capsule, transporting me not only to Guangzhou of the 80s but also back to my youth.

-THE END-

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